We know what you’re thinking— yet another thing to add to your skincare routine. But, while it may seem intimidating to apply acids to your skin, the benefits are worth it. They can help your skin in the long run, thanks to their ability to remove dead skin cells and impurities from your face.
To help you better understand acids— what they are, their benefits, and how to use them included– we spoke with industry-leading skincare experts below.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s)
Dr. Corey L. Hartman shares that alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble acids that “exfoliate skin to remove dead skin cells and reveal brighter, newer skin cells underneath.” AHAs work well for all skin types, except for anyone who has dry or sensitive skin. He also recommends people with rosacea or eczema should not use AHA’s.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHA’s)
Dr. Hartman shares that BHAs are oil soluble acids that “exfoliate the skin to remove dead skin cells.” They can also remove excess oil and build-up on the skin and pores. The most common BHA is salicylic acid, which has anti-inflammatory properties, making them a great choice for anyone with acne-prone skin. BHAs are generally tolerated by all skin types.
Polyhydroxy acid (PHA’s)
Polyhydroxy acids (PHA’s) have larger molecular structures and stay in the upper layers of skin. This acid works for all skin types. Celebrity esthetician Nichelle Temple notes that this acid “exfoliates the surface layer, has antioxidant properties, and provides hydration to the skin.”
Hyaluronic Acid
Ian Michael Crumm, celebrity esthetician and BeautyCurious Podcast co-founder, notes that hyaluronic acid “hydrates and plumps the skin by attracting moisture.” This acid also helps reduce the appearance of fine lines. It is suitable for all skin types, especially dry or dehydrated skin. The esthetician also recommends using this acid after cleansing and moisturizing the skin.
Salicylic Acid
This acid exfoliates, unclogs pores, and reduces acne and blackheads and works best for oily and acne-prone skin. It can cause dryness and irritation; it is not recommended for dry or sensitive skin. Tosin Eyikogbe, aesthetic nurse specialist at SkinSpirit, explains that salicylic acid “penetrates deep into the skin and works as a keratolytic, removing rough texture on the surface of the skin.” It also breaks down debris, unclogs your pores and removes any bacteria that cause any breakouts.
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid “exfoliates, improves texture and tone, and reduces fine lines,” says licensed esthetician at Farmhouse Fresh, Trisha Grimes. “It is suitable for most skin types but may irritate sensitive skin.” This acid can cause irritation, redness, and sensitivity to the sun. The esthetician recommends using this glycolic once or twice a week and “can increase if well-tolerated.”
Lactic Acid
Grimes also notes that lactic acid improves skin tone. It is suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin. Grimes recommends starting with using a product with lactic acid once and twice a week. If your skin can handle this acid twice, you can increase it if well-tolerated. Eyikogbe explains that lactic acid is another form of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that is derived from lactose.” It is suitable for all skin types and gentle, making it a great introduction to acids for those with sensitive skin,” says Eyikogbe says. “This acid is a gentle exfoliant that can remove dead skin cells, softens texture and adds hydration to the skin.”
Ascorbic Acid
Master aesthetician Paul Charette notes that this acid “enhances antioxidant protection and offers brightening benefits.” This acid is a form of vitamin C that helps to brighten the skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, and boost collagen production. It is suitable for most skin types and it can be used daily, but can irritate the skin if it’s used with other acids or retinoids. Eyikogbe also shares that this acid is a wonderful tool for overall healthy and glowing skin, which “stimulates collagen and overproduction of melanin from the sun.”
Azelaic Acid
“Azelaic Acid helps reduce inflammation and acne and lightens hyperpigmentation,” says board certified dermatologist Dr. Annabelle Garcia. “It is suitable for most skin types, especially acne-prone and rosacea-prone skin.” You can use azelaic acid daily, but the side effects of azelaic acid may cause mild irritation or dryness on your skin.
Mandelic acid
Grimes notes that this acid “reduce acne, fine lines, and improve uneven skin tone.” This acid works for all skin types, especially sensitive and acne prone skin.