Chemical peels are a buzzword skincare treatment. Popular for their resurfacing properties, peels use acids (a dermatologist-preferred alternative to physical exfoliants) to remove dead skin. However, if you have a rich complexion, using chemical cocktails can cause burns or hyperpigmentation if you’re not careful.
“Deep chemical peels are generally not suitable for darker skin tones,” dermatologist and founder of Rose MD Skin Dr. Rosemarie Ingleton tells ESSENCE. Luckily, peels vary depending on your skin tone and type. That said, Black women can still safely reap the benefits of the treatment.
Below, Ingleton breaks down everything you need to know about chemical peels.
What is a chemical peel?
“A chemical peel is a procedure for controlled chemical exfoliation,” Ingleton says. More suitable for rich complexions, “superficial peels typically utilize gentler acids such as glycolic acid or salicylic acid to gently exfoliate the outermost layer of skin.”
According to the American Academy of Plastic Surgeons, a light chemical peel uses more mild acids (like hydroxy acids) to treat uneven pigmentation, dryness, acne and wrinkles. Meanwhile, “deeper peels may involve stronger acids like trichloroacetic acid (TCA) or phenol to penetrate deeper into the skin,” and may require up to 8 weeks of preparation and anesthesia.
How does it work?
After cleansing your face, “your practitioner will apply an acid solution to your skin to loosen the outer layer of skin cells and speed up cell turnover,” she says. Similar to microneedling, “this causes controlled damage to the epidermis.” The peel is left on the skin for a few minutes, which may feel like mild stinging, before being washed off and neutralized. Due to the controlled damage, the skin will regenerate and heal itself which, in turn, can improve the skin’s tone, texture, and overall appearance.
What are the benefits?
“A targeted chemical peel can be helpful for a variety of skin concerns,” she says, including dullness and discoloration, rough texture, active acne, sun damage, and visible signs of aging. A light peel can be performed every two to five weeks depending on skin type, with results improving the more you use peels. However, be careful to not overuse them, as you can damage your skin barrier.
Which peel is right for me?
Although at-home chemical peels exist (like the Shani Darden Triple Acid Chemical Peel), “it is best to receive chemical peels by a trained dermatologist or experienced practitioner who can determine what type of peel is right for your skin and its unique concerns,” she says. For example, Ingleton warns deep chemical peels are generally not suitable for darker skin tones, as they can cause burns and hyperpigmentation. “In general, I always recommend starting with superficial chemical peels, since they’re suitable for most skin types including sensitive skin and require no downtime.”
How do I prep my skin?
Before going in for your appointment, it is important to let your skin know first. “I always recommend introducing your skin to fruit acid exfoliators for at least two weeks before coming in for a chemical peel,” she says, recommending the RoseMD SuperFruit Exfoliating Tonic. This exfoliator contains AHAs to get your skin acclimated to chemicals, which you can use 2 times per week.
“You also want to discontinue prescription-grade retinoids 48 hours before your peel and also avoid anything that exfoliates your skin for a minimum of 24 hours before treatment,” she says, including waxing, dermaplaning and scrubbing so as to not agitate your skin. “It’s very important to communicate honestly with your provider to make them aware of any underlying issues you may have like a history of cold sores or allergic reactions.”
What does recovery look like?
For at-home or light in-office chemical peels, your downtime will be minimal compared to medium or deep treatments. “Following a chemical peel, your skin may appear sensitive and flaky as it heals and regenerates, so it’s important to keep your routine super simple,” Ingleton says. “Use a gentle cleanser, a basic moisturizer, and an SPF until your skin recovers.”