Yesterday at sunset, Diotima presented their FW24 New York Fashion Week collection, reminding us of the fine line between being done-up and undone. While models posed by the gallery walls in colorful knits and cut-out pieces, we couldn’t help but notice their beauty looks: a marriage of heavy liner and blushy cheeks. “I was thinking about this moment of coming undone,” the Diotima designer, Rachel Scott, tells ESSENCE.
Picture this: It’s 4 a.m. and you’re wobbling out of a fashion week party. You arrived with a bright-eyed makeup look that later turns to a smoky shadow, smudged by sweat and humidity that only dancing the night away could cause. Perhaps it takes your pinned-up blowout to puffier heights, too. “You’ve been out, but you don’t care,” Scott says, as you’re cut loose from the restraints of your appearance.
Linking up with hairstylist Joey George, “we kept thinking about these church ladies in Jamaica and how they would be proper with their hair and then the next week they’re out at a party,” Scott says. A memory which led the Caribbean designer to interpret the models’ hair to look hat-like, “but a little bit undone and it’s still sexy and slicked back on one side.”
As for the makeup, Yumi Lee was responsible for the flushed cheeks– thanks to MERIT Beauty – with soft gray matte shadows under the eyes. “It’s so fab, that under eye darkness,” Scott says. The brows were dark and prominent and their lipsticks were faded, as though transferred onto the rim of their glass. But don’t worry, they can repent at church in the morning.
