When I opened the package containing Phlur’s Vanilla Smoke body mist, I had to laugh at myself. Did I need another vanilla fragrance? Absolutely not. Did that stop me from getting my nose on Phlur’s latest body mist, Vanilla Smoke? Also no. But, as a huge fan of the Phlur brand (woman-owned), and also, a huge fan of vanilla (my favorite scent note), alas here we are.
Now, before I get into the review, it’s important for me to let you know, I’m not the biggest fan of smokey, tobacco or incense fragrances. Hell, I don’t even like mezcal drinks for the same reason. There’s just something about the taste/smell of smoke that I can’t get behind. That was of course, until I tried Phlur’s Vanilla Smoke. It’s sultry, woody, sexy and a more palatable take on this scent profile.
When I first sprayed Vanilla Smoke on my skin, I was struck by how the bergamot and pink pepper top notes immediately cut through with brightness, creating an unexpected freshness that somehow makes the smokiness more approachable. As it settles, the heart notes of cacao blanc, cashmere vanilla, and tonka bean create a rich, creamy center that feels indulgent without being overwhelming.This isn’t a harsh, in-your-face smoke – it’s more like walking past someone burning high-quality incense from across the room.
Why I love it: What surprised me most about Vanilla Smoke is how wearable it makes smoke as a note. There’s none of that harsh, acrid quality that usually turns me off – instead, it adds complexity and depth to the vanilla. The smoke element doesn’t dominate, but instead transforms an otherwise familiar vanilla into something with character and edge.
At $38 for the 8oz bottle or a more modest $25 for the 3oz size, this body mist offers surprising value, especially considering the sophisticated composition. While I was initially skeptical about a body mist offering substantial longevity, Phlur consistently outperforms in this category. I should emphasize that this is a body mist, not a perfume. So if you’re looking for the longevity of an EDP, you’re not going to get that here. BUT like with most Phlur Body Mists, they outperform most body mists on the market, so you’ll still be smelling yourself well into the afternoon.
While I like this on me, I also think this would be extremely sexy on a man. And this is more of a cold weather fragrance, so unsure why it was released just ahead of spring, but because it’s Phlur they’ll get a pass (just don’t expect to want to reach for this often over the summer).
Perfect pairings: Like its predecessor Vanilla Skin (a Phlur cult-favorite), Vanilla Smoke has quickly become one of my favorite bases for layering. I’ve discovered some combinations that really elevate both fragrances involved.
For days when I want to emphasize the creamier aspects while maintaining that smoky backbone, I layer it with Phlur’s Vanilla Skin EDP and Heavy Cream Body Mist. The combination amplifies the cashmere vanilla notes while the smoke provides structure and prevents it from becoming too sweet. The result is a more sophisticated, multidimensional vanilla that feels appropriate for evening wear or more formal settings.
If you’re feeling bold and want to really embrace the smokiness, try pairing with Maison Margiela’s By The Fireplace. Many fragrance enthusiasts have already drawn comparisons between these two, but layering them creates something truly special. By The Fireplace’s chestnut and clove notes complement the birch and incense in Vanilla Smoke, while the combined vanilla accords create a rich warmth that feels like being wrapped in a cashmere blanket next to a dying fire. The Peru balsam in Vanilla Smoke also plays beautifully with the woody aspects of By The Fireplace.
Final verdict: If you don’t like smokey fragrances, you’ll likely want to stay away from this, and stick with your more traditional vanillas, but if you’re open to exploring and being adventurous, I think this one is worth getting your nose on. The price point makes it an accessible way to experiment with smokier notes without committing to a full-sized expensive EDP.
For those curious about the technical details, Vanilla Smoke belongs to the Woody Gourmand olfactive family. The perfumers behind this creation, Arnaud Winter and Constance Georges-Picot, have managed to create something that feels both familiar and surprising, which is no small feat in the increasingly crowded vanilla fragrance market.