Meji Meiji designer Tolu Oye’s relationship with her hair was, in her words, “tumultuous,” growing up. But, eventually it was reconciled with acceptance and appreciation for her culture. Born in Lagos, Nigeria and raised in Ohio, Oye had been hearing mixed messages about beauty standards for as long as she can remember. Ultimately, in a town where diversity was uncommon, it was up to her to figure out what she wanted to believe.
“At one period, I went through a whole relaxer phase. I didn’t want anything that would be symbolic to me being African. I think I had a major switch in 2016. I went to Nigeria again and kind of had a rebirth in terms of loving my culture,” she tells ESSENCE. “Now, if there’s any way that I can spread the gospel of different elements of my culture, even if it’s through hair, I want to use that as a form of storytelling.”
Her clothing brand, Meji Meji, which launched in 2020, is certainly an example of this. One of her best sellers, the Na Me Cause Am t-shirt, features a Black woman femme fatale with an afro as the subject. And now? Her new Sisi Ologe top is part of this lore that not only includes her relationship to hair, but also uplifts and preserves her culture.
The top embodies the imagery you’d see flipping through a ‘70s newspaper wig campaign ad: from a voluminous blowout and kinky coils, to intricate braided hairstyles that all embrace the expansiveness of African beauty. Collaborating with artists on her pieces is also of the utmost importance to her to serve as a voice for Africa. This time, in particular, she tapped artist Joseph Edgar. The print alone took six months to perfect—a true labor of love.
Meanwhile, the campaign imagery is reminiscent of Nollywood films—mixing nostalgia with the contemporary of Shuku up-dos. This all came together thanks to her longtime friends and collaborators, Joke lawl and Opeyemi Oyebanji. Their hairstyling prowess brought the designer’s campaign to life with intricate up-dos to accentuate the complexities of the top
But the world of hair always spoke to Oye’s soul long before becoming a brand founder. At 5 years old, she named the braiding salon her mother worked at as “her after-school program.” There, she helped her mother finish the tips of braids on her clients’ hair while watching Nollywood films ignited her love of fashion and beauty.
“I recently asked my mom if I was addicted to toys growing up, and she said, ‘Not at all, but you loved America’s Next Top Model. You would sit in front of the TV and watch the makeovers over and over. That’s when I noticed your interest in hair and fashion.’ She wasn’t surprised when I started taking on my own clients from school back in the days,” says Oye.
Witnessing how hair and fashion could improve someone’s confidence influenced her. She knew design was her calling, but it was also imperative that her pieces be connected to her roots—her story as an African, and incorporate her personal love for preserving African braiding techniques.
“I’m grateful my parents nurtured my talent, which led to my move to New York at 15,” where she attended the Art & Design School. “It took years of making myself the muse,” thanks to her signature looks like bang braids, freestyle cornrows, twisted mohawks, and more. “I gave my hairstylists headaches because they’d say, ‘this girl and her crazy hairstyles are back.’” That was until she found her tribe with Helena Koudou and Joke Lawal—who were just as excited to create hair magic with her.
In 2018, Oye came up with a hairstyle entitled the Shuku+Periwinkle. It included a high cone-like up-do with three rows of swooped braids in the front as bangs. The style was everywhere from the CFDA red carpet to Jameson packaging to Burna Boy’s music video. “Seeing people’s reactions to the style worldwide made me realize it’s not just about hair,” she says. And much like these iconic moments, Oye understands how important having this representation in everything she does is. As she explains, “it’s all about preserving traditional techniques while adding a modern touch. It’s my legacy.”
Shop the new Sisi Ologe drop on mejimeji.co, retailing for $82.