Let’s take a trip down memory lane. The year is 2003, and Black women in entertainment are thriving. From music to movies and models on the runway, no lane was untouched. Growing up in the 90s and aughts, I can personally attest to the impact shows like Girlfriends had on Black beauty standards. The same is true for the era’s top music stars. Destiny’s Child, 3LW, Alicia Keys, Amerie, and so many others shaped the definition of a beautiful Black woman. But there was an underlying issue of colorism.
For many years, lighter complexions have been the face of Black beauty in the entertainment industry. It’s never been a secret, especially when it comes to makeup and deeper skin tones. Naomi Campbell has frequently spoken about the lack of makeup for black-skinned models during that pivotal era.
Fortunately, although there is still work to be done, in 2024, things are much different. Black women in entertainment are still thriving and dark-skinned beauties—think Kelly Rowland, JT, Ryan Destiny, Anok Yai, Janelle Monae, and others are moving the needle in a new way. These women consistently serve inspiring makeup looks thanks to a handful of talented makeup artists. We sat down with four of them to get the secrets behind the glam.
Below, they speak on challenges they’ve faced, share their tips for making dark skin shine so brilliantly, and the products they rely on daily.
The Creative Process
When it comes to creating a stunning makeup look that tops mood boards and Instagram feeds, knowing your client is key. “Having a keen understanding of who my client is is always important. From reviewing what they’re wearing to brainstorming the makeup and finding a way to bring it all to life, the process is personal,” says Billie Gene. The celebrity makeup artist’s work can be seen on stars like Kerry Washington, Sheryl Lee Ralph, Ryan Destiny, and others. Fellow A-lister MUA Bernicia Boateng couldn’t agree more. “Getting to know the overall vibe is the first thing I do for any project. The fashion, hair, skin, and features help set the tone and direction the glam will go in,” she says.
Whether creating for editorial, red carpet, or events, all the MUAs tell ESSENCE that fashion and personality play a big role in the final makeup look. “Each client is different, and their individuality inspires the makeup, so I always want to showcase their most authentic self with every look,” says Gene. Similarly, Sheika Daley, a celebrity makeup artist and educator, notes that uniqueness often ranges from their features to the textures of their skin and how the light interacts with their natural complexion. “With deeper tones, I want to bring out their natural glow while complementing their overall look,” she says.
“Beauty is all about building confidence and resilience. Seeing someone confidently wearing their skin out when they never thought they could be that girl. That’s a triumph,” adds Cool Benson, a celebrated Hollywood makeup artist.
Challenges in the Industry
While it’s true that foundation shades have become much more diverse, the complexion category can still be challenging. “Although there’s been progress, finding the perfect foundation, concealer, or even eyeshadows that pop on deep skin can still be a struggle,” says Daley. Many makeup lovers can vouch that this is an issue across the board. For Benson, deeper contour colors have been one of the most challenging. “Some shades tend to be too warm for deeper skin, which needs cooler tones for sculpting and contouring,” he says.
Aside from base products, Boateng notes that things should be more universal. “With makeup items like eyeshadow, blush, and lipstick, I find myself mixing products and colors together to get the perfect shade for my deeper skin client,” she says. Understanding the complexities and undertones of dark skin is essential for creating flawless makeup. On her Instagram, Boateng celebrates those complexities by serving up DIY inspiration for chocolate skin tones and showing that achieving a glamorous look is just as possible at home.
The Art of Creating Flawless Makeup
Every enviable makeup look begins with skincare. “Skin prep is an absolute game-changer. A good moisturizer, eye cream, and primer can be the difference between flawless coverage and an application that looks uneven and lacks opulence,” says Boateng. Daley relies on a rich, hydrating base to ensure the skin is smooth and that its natural radiance shines through the makeup. Once your skin is primed, go in with a lightweight foundation that offers buildable coverage, then add a bit of a creamy highlighter. “This maintains the skin’s natural beauty and adds dimension without dulling the richness of the complexion,” says Daley.
To bring out the richness in your skin, Gene says bronzer shouldn’t be an afterthought. “A big misconception is that bronzers are only for lighter complexions, but using a bronzer adds depth,” he says. But it can also be used to enhance the subtleties in tone. “Using bronzer all over the face, including the cheekbones and eyelids, gives a true nude look on dark skin,” says Boateng.
Contouring is another method that works beautifully on deeper skin tones to bring out distinct facial features. If you’re having trouble finding a deep enough shade, he recommends using a matte eyeshadow palette that may have a color perfect for contouring.
No matter how flawless your makeup looks, good lighting will make it ten times better. “Bad lighting can instantly wash you out or distort your look. When you’re applying makeup, consider your light environment. This will help you make the necessary adjustments to showcase your beauty,” says Benson.
The range of deeper complexions in the entertainment industry is becoming increasingly diverse. From coffee brown to dark chocolate, the spectrum is vast. And thanks to the MUAs, the inspiring makeup looks are also never ending. Keep scrolling to shop for their favorite makeup products to achieve a stunning makeup look at home.
