The unquenched thirst for beauty has infiltrated virtually every section of our lives. We have morning skin routines to maintain, new body care hacks to try out, and biweekly salon appointments to book. However, one area of our life that has remained relatively untouched is the priceless hours of beauty sleep many of us spend our day looking forward to. But now, a new trend is closing in even on our sacred time of slumber.
Shedding is the latest in a slew of beauty routines that have taken TikTok by storm. Hundreds of users have posted their version of the trend––an overnight maintenance routine full of facial products, tools, and contraptions––with some videos reaching over one million likes. These creators all follow a similar formula with a few variables. You’ll almost always see a jaw strap, some form of mouth tape, a face mask and a bonnet or heatless curlers.
This extensive nighttime routine is a one-way street to the perceived “effortlessly gorgeous” look that has become all the rage online. This shift away from the overly glam, super-made-up aesthetics that have dominated social media feeds for years towards an (admittedly manufactured) “I woke up like this” look.
Below, two certified shedders and an aesthetic nurse practitioner weigh in on the benefits and potential risks of shedding.
What is shedding?
To understand shedding, we have to first understand what is being shed. Those who partake in the overnight maintenance ritual start the process by applying a wide variety of beauty accouterments to their face before bed. Think: an extended nighttime routine taking a step up from the pimple cream and headgear people went to sleep with in years past. This reimagined night time routine includes a jaw or chin strap that promises the appearance of a snatched jawline (like “mewing” in your sleep). An overnight face mask or under-eye patches are often thrown into the beauty mix, as well, to mitigate puffiness and add moisture.
Some fans of the method also incorporate mouth tape, which promotes nose breathing, a buzzy trend with a host of alleged benefits, including reduced snoring and bad breath. Lip liner stains are another option for people wanting to wake up with perfectly lined lips. Although the face seems to be centered in the trend, hair is not exempt from pre-shed prep. Heatless curlers and bonnets are quite popular additions to this routine.
But morning time is when the real fun begins. The masks, straps, and bonnets come off similar to a snake shedding its skin, hence the name. While the process has an undeniable aesthetic motif, there are some sleep-related aspects to the method as well. That is to say, one person’s motivations for participating in this regime may look different from the next.
Why is it popular?
For 30-year-old freelance social media coordinator Kayla Lee, shedding was an “incremental process” that began three months ago. “Leading up to my 30th birthday, I wanted to implement some habits and do some habit stacking,” Lee tells ESSENCE. Her goal was to find a way to amp up her self-care routine that wouldn’t require her to wake up any earlier than necessary.
“I feel alert at night. That’s when I want to spend my efforts, rather than waking up earlier,” Lee says. Her particular brand of shedding began slowly. “First, it was the overnight masks when I’m sleeping. Then I added on the eye patches, then overnight curls and then TikTok influenced me to order a jaw strap.”
Despite how labor-intensive the process may seem, her main motive was quite the opposite: ease. “I am a bit of a lazy girl,” she says, as a self-proclaimed night owl who knows her limits when it comes to laborious morning routines. “If I’m waking up earlier to do something, it might not actually get done. If I oversleep, then I’m running out the door feeling a mess.”
But it’s not all about the glow-up. “Taking time for myself at night really sets me up for a better night of sleep,” she says. In fact, the non-glamorous effects of the morning shed are what lured in some other shedders, including 24-year-old tech consultant Maureen Osei, whose shedding TikTok now has over 3 million views.
“I struggle with congestion a lot. So finding out that mouth tape exists was super eye-opening,” Osei says. For her routine, she uses a chin strap, nose and mouth tape, face masks, pimple patches when needed, and a bonnet. “The mouth tape and the nose tape increase my airflow.”
As for the effects of the straps, Osei says the jaw strap offers a short-term slimming effect but finds it to be much more useful for aiding in a more restful night’s sleep. “When I use the strap, I’m doing a lot less teeth grinding and that’s something that I have a problem with,” she says. “I do feel like my jaw is a lot more aligned overall, which helps with breathing at night.”
What are the risks?
With some shedders claiming the trend has more than just aesthetic benefit––from decreased snoring to better jaw alignment and more rest––excess or improper use of tools may pose unnecessary risks. “For most people, using a jaw strap is safe when done correctly,” aesthetic nurse practitioner Ginille Brown says. “However, misuse or excessive compression can lead to discomfort, skin irritation, and, in rare cases, restricted blood flow,” adding that following intended use guidelines is essential.
In terms of overnight products that are worth the investments, Brown says face tape and hydrating masks can be a low risk addition. “Masks containing hyaluronic acid or glycerin can provide deep hydration, making the skin appear plumper and more radiant by morning,” Brown says. If you’re looking for more temporary results, Brown says face tapes can provide some short-term improvements.
“Facial taping can minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles [and] can also extend the life of your Botox, but these are not one-and-done treatments,” she says. “Consistency is key to seeing any potential benefits. However, it’s important to remember that these effects are not permanent and require regular application to maintain.”