Black Queer fashion history is yesterday, today, and tomorrow. In celebration of Pride Month, every week in June, we will spotlight the contributions of prolific Black queer fashion designers.
Willi Smith, an influential fashion designer, left an indelible mark on the industry with his innovative designs and inclusive approach. Born on February 29, 1948, in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, Smith’s passion for fashion was evident from an early age. After studying commercial art at the Philadelphia College of Art, he moved to New York City, where he began his journey to becoming a renowned figure in the fashion world.
In 1976, Smith co-founded the fashion label, WilliWear Ltd., alongside Laurie Mallet, his business partner and collaborator. WilliWear quickly gained recognition for its vibrant, urban-inspired clothing that effortlessly blended high fashion with streetwear. Smith’s designs were characterized by their bold colors, playful patterns, and relaxed silhouettes, which challenged conventional notions of luxury fashion.
What set Smith apart was his commitment to accessibility and inclusivity. He believed that fashion should be affordable and cater to diverse body types and cultural backgrounds. Smith embraced the concept of “street couture,” creating clothes that reflected the dynamic and multicultural nature of New York City. His designs appealed to the fashion elite and the everyday consumer, blurring the boundaries between high fashion and ready-to-wear.
Smith’s influence extended beyond his designs. He was known for his collaborative spirit, often working with artists, musicians, and dancers to bring a multidisciplinary approach to his collections. He even delved into custom design, contributing his to costumes for Spike Lee’s School Daze. He embraced the power of fashion as a means of self-expression and cultural commentary.
Tragically, like many known and unknown Black queer ancestors of the 80s & 90s, Smith’s career was cut short when he passed away in 1987 at 39 due to an AIDS-related illness. However, his legacy lives on even now in the sphere. His pioneering work continues to inspire designers and shape the fashion industry’s landscape. Smith’s vision of inclusivity, affordability, and creative collaboration remains relevant today, reminding us that fashion can be a catalyst for social change and empowerment.
Willi Smith’s contributions to fashion were not just about aesthetics but about breaking down barriers and challenging the status quo. His designs and inclusive approach serve as an enduring reminder that fashion should be a platform for creativity, diversity, and self-expression.