Paris Fashion Week Men’s has arrived. From January 16 to 21, runway presentations occur back to back at different locations meant to be a part of the storytelling of a collection. Black designers are rarely seen on the PFW Men’s calendar let alone the others like Milan or London Fashion Week. This year only five Black designers are on this particular calendar out of over 60. This is quite a disappointment since we know the wide array of Black designers that would’ve been a valuable addition to the official calendar. For instance, it would have been a treat for Bianca Saunders, Martine Rose and Ozwald Boateng to be included in this season’s lineup too.
In the coming days, well-known brands like Wales Bonner to emerging brands Lagos Space Programme will present their latest collections. Bonner’s research-based design method has lent a great hand to her structured suiting and often Jamaican-inspired pieces. Balmain the Olivier Rousteing-helmed brand is returning to the Paris calendar as the last show on Saturday, the 20th, according to WWD. The show will be a spotlight on the brand’s menswear line. Rousteing’s journey from his roots at Robert Cavalli in 2003 to his creative director role at Balmain has garnered widespread inspiration for many young Black aspiring designers.
If you want to get to know the brands showing at Paris Fashion Men’s Week, keep scrolling.
Botter
Co-founded by Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh in 2017, the gender-neutral Caribbean brand has won the Andam prize in 2022 and was an LVMH finalist in 2018. The brand is largely known for its “Caribbean couture” design codes which consist of vibrant colors and innovative ideas like turning trousers into sweaters. Botter had studied design at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts while Herrebrugh studied at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. The duo’s show this season will be nothing short of fantastical as their Spring/Summer 2023 runway show had a viral moment with buoyant condom gloves on models.
Botter will be presenting on Wednesday, January 17 at 10 a.m. local time.
Wales Bonner
Founded by Grace Wales Bonner in 2014, the menswear brand has blossomed from emerging to established in a short few years. Her designs have garnered the attention of many rappers from Kendrick Lamar to Tyler, the Creator who have been seen in her pieces. Bonner uses her Jamaican heritage as a source of inspiration as well with pieces that have an island-inspired flare to them.
Wales Bonner will be presenting on January 17 at 6:30 p.m. local time.
Lagos Space Programme
Lagos Space Programme was established by designer Adeju Thompson in 2018. Throughout the last few years, the non-binary luxury brand has been growing tremendously. Thompson’s vision for their brand is surrounded by Blackness, the balance of masculinity and beauty, and African design codes. Born in Lagos and educated in the United Kingdom, Thompson cut their teeth at Lagos-based brand Maki Oh in 2013 before launching their label. Since then, Thompson has gone on to win the International Woolmark Prize in 2023 and was shortlisted for an LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers in 2021. Thompson’s pieces were also featured in the Victoria and Alber Museum’s “Africa Fashion” exhibition.
Lagos Space Programme will be presenting on January 19 between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. local time.
Winnie New York
Winnie New York founded by Idris Balogun in 2018 is on a mission to deconstruct luxury. Balogun’s Nigerian heritage plays a huge role in his design methods–intimate storytelling is also woven into every piece he designs. He studied under the fashion houses Burberry and Tom Ford before launching his brand. With that experience, Balogun has focused on creating long-lasting quality pieces that are tailored to perfection. Expect exquisite suiting rather than short-lived gimmicks at this next runway show.
Winnie New York will be presenting on January 21 at 11:30 a.m. local time.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing has been the creative director of Balmain since 2011 at the age of 24—a feat like no other for many Black designers. The longevity of his career at such a young age is inspiring on its own. He completely changed the aesthetics of Balmain from his predecessor to have more of a couture element and it’s been this way for about 13 years. Accomplishments like creating custom looks for Beyoncé’s most successful tour to turning around a fashion house, Rousteing’s ability to adapt and change narratives throughout the fashion industry as a Black designer has not gone unnoticed. This next collection is a stand-alone menswear debut for Balmain, something new to add to Rousteing’s Rolodex of innovative ideas.
Balmain will be presenting on January 20 at 8:30 p.m. local time.