After a last-minute snowstorm, front-row sighting of Beyoncé, and epic Thom Browne closing show, New York Fashion Week has concluded relatively smoothly. Many have expressed this season feeling a little different than usual, but nonetheless, New York surely has kicked off this fashion month, setting the tone for trends that will prevail come fall/winter.
This season we were met yet again with trends lying on both sides of the spectrum–from high intensity bold colors and masterful tailoring all the way to subtle neutral tones and exquisite draping. Leaving designers such as Zonkov, showcasing cozy and luxurious knits, Diotima, re-imagining crochet technique, Wiederhoft, and Sergio Husdon reminding us of the power of corsetry, and nearly everyone else chiming in on the power of a big fur to fill in the spaces in between. We still have London, Paris, and Milan ahead which will be sure to bring the drama, but in the meantime, we have the four major trends from the New York Fashion Week runways that are sure to define our Fall/Winter 2024 season.
Built In Necktie
This season we were met with many renditions of a heightened neck detail or knotted built-in scarf. We saw this trend either built into the design or as a styling choice, playing into a feeling of security either by way of Peter Do’s modern and chic version seen in his sophomore collection with Helmut Lang or with Micheal Kors’ most recent collection with more of a nod to the old money aesthetic. Either way, it’s great to see the functionality and nuance of this trend live together on and off the runway.
Power Dressing Is Back
As we continue to fight our way back from the past years of athleisure. Tailoring, strong shoulders, and sharp lines down the runway this season are propelling the term “Girl boss” back to top of mind. Brands whose ethos is rooted in suiting such as Sergio Hudson and Thom Browne continue to lead the way, while brands such as Monse, Willy Chavarria, and LaQuan Smith seem to be following shortly after. All brands seem to be borrowing notes as we see blazers and suit separates coupled with flowy open tops, corsets, and even skin to bring us into a world of power dressing with more delicate notes and room for creativity.
Red
Unapologetically juxtaposing the power essentials trend, we not only have the injection of red with tights and accessories; it’s more like a contained takeover. With designers diving further into the passion and maturity associated with the crimson tone. Many collections this season happily played with earth tones, yet made a firm statement with the power stance of a fire engine red. With either playful moments with a one-off look with brands like 3.1 Phillip Lim, House of Aama, and Gabriela Hearst all the way to a dedication of the color towards a part of the collection as seen with Prabal Gurung and Christian Cowan. Red is surely a power color and is pushing its way through our wardrobe all season.
Big Fur
If you’ve ever put on a floor-length faux fur (or real fur, we won’t say anything) coat then you know the feeling that ensues with it. There is a chicness, an elegance, a feeling that what you have underneath truly doesn’t matter because the coat is the moment. Brands took note of the undeniable need for this trend to line the streets come this fall. From Aknvas, Lapointe, and Eckhaus Latta to Khaite, Tory Burch, and Helmut Lang–many designers this season acknowledged the beauty of texture and volume paired with the plush feeling of comfort, especially during the colder months.