Though not on the official New York Fashion Week calendar, Harlem Fashion Row’s Show and Style Awards is a mainstay. In its 17th year, the celebration is perhaps the most authentic showcase in New York City each September. Yesterday evening at the intersection of Riverside Drive and 122nd Street in Harlem, founder Brandice Daniel was joined by family, fashion titans including Misa Hylton, Dapper Dan, fellow creatives, and many others who encompass her tribe.
Radical representations of realness were the through line that connected each of the honorees of the evening. When Tracee Ellis Ross stepped onstage to pay homage to her best friend Samira Nasr, the editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar, it was admirable to hear her speak of her kinship with the talented Nasr, the awardee of “Editor of The Year.”Many admire the work of the highly regarded editor and former fashion director, so it’s worth noting that Ross considers her a sister.
Ross alluded to how the duo have grown up alongside one another–she even mentioned how she couldn’t be who she is without Nasr. “Lady Nasr has broadened the lens of what should be on the cover and on the pages of a glossy magazine and whose stories are worthy of being told.” She went on to declare that under her direction Harper’s Bazaar is “an intersection of high fashion and culture with an elevated journalistic standard.”
Nasr contextualized her award-winning moment amid the notion that the role of magazines and fashion magazines has stayed the same. She expressed that she pondered the following on the role of the magazine under her tutelage. “To delight and surprise our readers. To deliver the best in fashion and the culture that shapes it,” she said. “Most importantly it is to be a record of our time–when I started in my role four years ago, the question I kept coming back to and the question that helped me define my purpose in this role: who gets to be a part of that record?” she said.
As the evening continued, Lena Waithe expressed her love and admiration for costume designer and stylist Shiona Turini who was awarded with “Stylist of the Year.” “Your confidence is not empty–it has been earned time and time again,” she shared. Waithe mentioned that director Melina Matsoukas introduced the duo who went on to collaborate on the much spoken of film, Queen & Slim which Turini led costume design for.
Turnini’s acceptance moment was equally memorable. While on stage she shared that she knows that she stands on the backs of icons that came before her including June Ambrose, Misa Hylton, and others. These few are names that she says lit a fire in her when she was a youngster in Bermuda watching television.
“While it is an honor, it’s even more of an honor to be celebrated by one’s own,” she said. Turini added: “I know what it feels like to do this work in an industry that often sidelines us or fails to name the part that Black creatives play in sustaining and revitalizing the fashion industry.”
Corey Smith, the head of diversity, equity, and inclusion, North America at LVMH introduced singer, creative director, and artist Teyana Taylor. Taylor was honored with the “Virgil Abloh” award presented by LVMH.
Upon receiving this honor, she expressed her deep affection for Harlem and how it has been a crucial part of her upbringing, allowing her creativity to flourish. She also mentioned that her mother continues to be a constant source of inspiration for her.
Elsewhere in the evening, supermodel Naomi Campbell, “Icon of the Year,” detailed just how Harlem has embraced and inspired her over the years by showing her “a whole new world in style.” Andre Leon Talley was mentioned and so was the late Reverend Calvin Butts, two pivotal figures to New York City.
A signature element of HFR’s annual festivities is its designer presentation. This year, LaTouche, Nicole Benefield, and Aaron Potts took the stage to unveil their latest collections.
During a recent conversation, Potts, a New York City-based designer detailed how HFR is a creative ecosystem that he proudly is a part of. He hinted that his collection would blend creativity with practicality, anchored by an “Urban Oceania” theme–and it was delivered. Splashes of blue and hits of resplendent metallics made up his splashy clothing. “The other thing that I injected is this sense of iridescence that happens under the water [with fish.]”
Brooklyn-born designer Benefield of Nicole Benfeild Portfolio who combined fall and spring offerings in her latest line leaned heavily on hues like lime green. She shared that she built her collection around aspirational editorial moments. In a video call, the designer expressed that she chose to infuse more color than is typically seen from her in the past–she also celebrated fabrics and created garments that felt playful. Utilitarian-inspired button-up shirts and wide-length palazzo trousers in bold hues went down the runway.
LaTouche who is based in New Jersey expressed that his collection could be described as mastery of the moment. “[My collection] comes from [my] Haitian roots. Spending the summers in Haiti have taught me to use the bare minimum, but give opulence.” A lengthy floral coat and a grey plaid suit were juxtaposed separately in two different looks.
Each collection was drastically different but also quite expressive. The varying hues and silhouettes presented spoke to the myriad of inspirations the designers were pulling from. I thought of Potts’ call-out that HFR provides an ecosystem and recalled another significant notion he mentioned. “For my brand this season, but also the brand in general, it really is about marrying my sense of creativity with the practicality of real life,” Potts shared over Zoom. His creations in addition to the others that were presented meet these requirements while also being provocative and spirited.
One particular sentiment stood out to me throughout the entire evening. Campbell aptly expressed words that honor Brandice Daniel and her impact, stating, “Brandice Daniel and your entire team, thank you for your commitment to elevating diverse voices in fashion.” She also added that HFR, led by Daniels, doesn’t just showcase talent; it also nurtures and champions it, propelling talent forward. This sentiment resonated loudly and provided the clearest insight into the essence of the evening and the significance of HFR.