Lisa Folawiyo is a force in the Nigerian fashion market. No other designer has spent the better part of nearly two decades creating designs that adopt the substantial identity of traditional West African fabric and using them to construct vivid stories.
Born to a West Indian mother and a Nigerian father, Folawiyo describes her early days as very creative, she had a passion for drawing and sketching. She eventually became a lawyer and practiced for a year. Folawiyo sought solace in fashion because to her it was a natural calling. She credits her mother’s influence as the true source of her fashion journey. She recalls watching her sew their clothes as children and how sometimes she would sit at the seamstress shop for hours.
“She was very particular [about] how all four of her children presented themselves to the world in terms of what we wore, and subconsciously, I became very aware of clothing, of how I wanted to look. Also, my mother is from Trinidad and Tobago, and I think that [inspired] my love for colors and prints.,” Lisa tells ESSENCE. Folawiyo adds that her late mother was quite stylish too.
Lisa’s journey within fashion has an interesting prologue–it’s marked by her eagerness to have a say in the unfolding fashion story in Africa before the mainstream media was paying attention. The aughts witnessed the rise of budding designers and their stories on the continent and Folawiyo was one of them, starting her brand, Jewel by Lisa in 2005. For her, there was a gap to fill, orchestrated by the necessity to fulfill her taste which she felt wasn’t catered to at the time. What she felt she provided was a youthful and luxurious take on jewelry.
Next, Folawiyo wanted to put the spotlight on Ankara fabrics, which for her was the most familiar fabric to use for this afro-futuristic plight; and she wanted to make it seem cool and elegant while also being viewed as innovative. But it was also because reinvigorating textiles is what she was aiming to accomplish–she adores prints and color—all of which Ankara allowed her to experiment with. Over the years, she’s been able to employ a more innovative twist to it, reinterpreting the prints as she sees fit for each of her collections.
What first was Jewel by Lisa later became an eponymous label in 2015, but with the same philosophy of reinvention and celebration. The brand aesthetic of Lisa Folawiyo fuses traditional African fabrics with modern techniques of garment construction. She accomplishes this feat while intentionally affording women the power to express themselves in clothes that deviate from the norms of trends. Since its launch, the brand has been renowned for its approach to exquisite craftsmanship especially in the fluid embellishment and beaded works.
“The hand embellishment that goes into every LF piece is all about the art of detail—hours of dedication and skill are put into each tiny stitch, turning fabric into something extraordinary. It’s a labor of love that transforms a piece from ordinary to unforgettable,” Folawiyo tells ESSENCE. This adds to the global visibility attributed to the brand and also makes it a favorite to global stars like Lupita N’yongo and Solange Knowles have worn the bespoke label.
In nearly two decades, Folawiyo has produced more than 30 collections, and it comes as a shock to her when she says it out loud. But it’s not just about having more than 30 collections, it’s realizing that she has stretched herself considerably over the years. “Every new collection, every season, I’m learning new things,” she says. “I’m trying my hands at new things, exploring new ways, methods, ideas, to [tell] our story.” The designer also says she does this as a way of offering loyalty to the brand’s core aesthetic.
The idea for her latest collection “The Starting Line” came from an array of thoughts shortly after the LF Coll 1 2024 late last year. She tells me how it centered around the idea of winning a race. “We all want to win, and that just really interested me because it truly is the state of being. Even more so in the world today, where the competition is so fierce, and the world is getting tough every day and we’re competing on so many different levels,” she says.
Folawiyo wanted to make the previously mentioned collection relatable to the audience so she incorporated different games but with a focus on the Nigerian ayo game which was boldly elucidated in the prints and designs. Following suit was a delightful show, held in the affluent atmosphere of Eko Atlantic, where she combines charm with sportsmanship to produce a stunning exhibit. The story was in the motif, a clash of vibrant colors, intricate embellishments, and extraordinary constructions. A ball-breasted dress, detailed fringe work, beaded bags, corseted aso oke, and fabric footwear.
“The Starting Line is a reminder that while we may feel the pressure to win, it’s just as important to enjoy the race,” she tells ESSENCE. “Life is a sport, and here we’re all participants, lighting up the racetracks, courts, and arenas with our unique style.”
Lisa believes there are more conversations to have about fashion than just the art of cloth making. For instance, the topic of overconsumption and how it’s running rampant in the industry has been on her mind lately. On this notion, she adds that she believes consumers are becoming aware of overconsumption and are leaning on the value of clothing while obsessing over the idea of sustainability. To her, this has led to a focus on what’s special to them beyond just shopping from their favorite brands or falling in love with the sartorial choices of designers. Folawiyo also notes that this is the result of the shrinking world economy and how it’s affecting the industry, leading to the demise of fashion labels that aren’t backed by large conglomerates. She admits that designers like herself are always adjusting, finding what works for them while still creating noteworthy designs.
She believes that the future is strikingly bright for Nigerian fashion, especially as more people are gravitating towards what the designers are saying because that’s really what fully develops the fashion story; they as designers create these pieces to widen the choices of what to wear and it goes along to visualize the Nigerian culture, history and its societal influences. “Fashion is fun, it’s exciting, whimsy, and fantasy but we don’t sometimes realize that culturally [it] is such a key part of culture, history, and marking time and moments,” she explains.
2024 marks the 19th year for the brand Lisa Folawiyo and for Folawiyo herself, she’s grateful for the passion that keeps her on the clock year after year. “I’m most grateful that I even have more passion than I did when I started and that’s what drives the wheel,” she tells ESSENCE.
“I wake up every day truly excited to come to the studio and to just design and work with my team. I’m grateful that I’m still here. And it’s nice to know that people are inspired, that they are truly delighted to see what we are doing, the authenticity and real commitment to the brand, and I think it is heartwarming that we are here and still have so much to say,” Folawiyo adds.