There’s a scene in the 1978 film classic adaptation, The Wiz, where the ever-so-chic citizens of Emerald City prance and dance in their finest garb as the wiz dictates the color of their ensembles. As the lyrics go, “And if you’re not seen red, then you shouldn’t be seen nowhere,”—and at Ferragamo SS23, apparently, that was the modus operandi. Red! With the graphic red sand, suede dresses, and bags, Davis sent a strong, clear message that this was a new era and that it would be bold, punchy, and fresh.
As part of Milan Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2023, Maximillian Davis presented his highly anticipated debut collection for the Florentine house of Salvatore Ferragamo this past weekend, and we must say we’re quite intrigued. Monochrome sets, luxe suede suits, bags, and trenches, oversized silhouettes in cozy summer knits and breezy fabrics, meticulously cut, sequined trousers, and Saville tailoring updated with leather. There was this perfect juxtaposition of balancing tradition yet with a distinct twist.
Maximillian Davis presented his highly anticipated debut collection for the Florentine house of Salvatore Ferragamo this past weekend, and we must say we’re quite intrigued. Monochrome sets, luxe suede suits, bags, and trenches, oversized silhouettes in cozy summer knits and breezy fabrics, meticulously cut, sequined trousers, and Saville tailoring updated with leather. There was this perfect juxtaposition of balancing tradition yet with a distinct twist. As is the brief with any storied mason, coming into a space with several predecessors and several aesthetic eras, all on top of distinct house codes, can be a bit overwhelming (see; Raf at Dior or Clare Waight Keller at Chloé). But at a house like Salvatore Ferragamo, one known more so for its leather goods than RTW, there’s a lot of room for reinvention. That’s precisely where Davis reeled in from.
From the standard wiping of the social channels and rebranding with a new set of aesthetics, typeface, and signature color, earlier last week, Davis set us up perfectly for what to expect. A fresh new typeface and dropping the Salvatore, opting for just “Ferragamo,” was a bold but impactful move on Davis’ behalf. This isn’t your great uncle’s treasured leather Salvatore Ferragamo brogues. This is for a new generation!
The color palette and using white and this buttery suede tan as palette cleansers in between the fiery red looks and leather pieces were delicately intentional. Look 24, this voluminous white knit sweater, with a slitted knit skirt paired with a large suede hobo bag, screams quiet luxury. Then the following look is a punchy red blazer dress, with red tights, a mini-bag, and heels. It’s a masterclass, as Davis uses this method continuously throughout the collection. The menswear was also particularly special. It was refined and impeccably tailored (like look 2, a full monochrome suede suit and trench) yet also delicate and sexy, with draped asymmetrical tanks in ombré and leather suit-short sets.
This collection was an exciting debut from one of the industry’s most exciting young names. You walked away from this collection knowing the intention, the why — and that should be the aim of every designer. It’ll be interesting to see how Davis pushes the aesthetic further and what signatures will carry over from this season to the next. All eyes are on Maximillian Davis, that’s for sure.
See some of our favorite looks from the collection ahead.
