We’re living through a vivid and expressive era in which winning political style is carved out in real-time. During the Democratic National Convention, Vice President Kamala Harris recently stuck with the suits she has worn for years. But, these well-tailored suits were keenly pieced together. The designer of the exquisite light brown ensemble and the excellent navy suit was Chloé’s creative director, Chemena Kamali. What does this signal? It signals that the current Democratic candidate for the United States presidency is delving into her most exciting fashion moments. I predict that vibrant colors and the use of designers she’s leaned on previously could lead to experimentation that will come across as wins rather than losses.
Winning and losing the public perception is of the utmost importance in today’s day and age. Especially when it comes to how swiftly supporters or non-supporters run to social media to share their positive or negative opinions. However, one notion is clear: dressing well has always been taken seriously over the decades, especially for women who represent the White House and their husbands, the President of our nation. This key position calls for a woman or partner who embraces the eyeballs that are glued on them during one’s presidential campaign and later during their presidency once they are sworn in respectively.
That is where Vice President Kamala Harris enters and shakes things up a bit. If she is sworn in, Harris will encompass the role of President. This allows her a significant opportunity to wear custom pieces by not just Black designers but also South Asian designers, which would represent her ethnic background wholly. It’s well-known that she’s previously worn Sergio Hudson, the Los Angeles-based designer infamous for his smart workwear. He is just an example of which design cues the Vice President could delve further into supporting on the campaign trail and also beyond in the months to come.
But what clothing-wise has become synonymous with the sitting Vice President? Her knack for a well-put-together suit. Teri Agins, an author and former Wall Street Journal business fashion journalist declares that this look is “the 21st century power look.” She explains that in the 1990s feminine-leaning suits became normalized as a means of self-expression for women who wanted to be taken seriously in the workplace. Strong shoulders were trending too back then. “The power pantsuit became a thing in the 1990s with Giorgio Armani and Donna Karan.” This foray into suiting has stuck with American women since this period. Agins says that Ann Taylor was a brand that made suits accessible to many, especially in the 1990s.
The relaxed take on workwear is not a departure for the Vice President–since she hasn’t switched up yet and this may become her go-to style. “Kamala’s look has been very consistent,” Agins said. She adds that on stage at the Democratic National Convention, she looked “beautifully polished.” The tan suit worn with the Pussy Bow blouse in cream was a powerful and energetic look, according to the Agins.
The author tells me that this is only possible with figures such as former First Ladies Nancy Reagan, Jackie Kennedy, and Michelle Obama, who were lauded for their style. Historically speaking their fashion moments are a part of the canon that all women in politics are building upon. Agins agrees with this sentiment.
Former First Lady Reagan was collectively known, celebrated, and looked down upon for her elegant ensembles. Designers such as Oscar de la Renta, James Galanos, and Bill Blass were friends of hers–she also wore their designs, according to WWD. President Ronald Reagan and Nancy were lauded for their lavish state dinners. To them, she’d don brilliant creations. At one such dinner after Galanos created 20 sketches and consulted with a Park Avenue boutique owner who provided insights on changes one number came into fruition: a head-turning red chiffon gown. Nancy Reagan’s preferences were referred to as glamorous and upscale. This was a precedent she set during her time in the White House.
Her 1981 inaugural weekend was lauded–formal dresses by different designers were worn. She reportedly expressed that she loves giving designers chances. “I think that’s only fair. I would play up American designers,” she shared. Per WWD, Galanos dressed her in a white one-shoulder gown that weekend. During her eight years in the White House, the former First Lady would regularly invite Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, and Carolina Herrera for visits there.
To some, she reinvigorated interest in the American fashion industry during her husband’s administration. “She knows her style and what suits her. She is marvelously groomed without it being stiff or studied. Her makeup is good and her hair is wonderful,” Henri Bendel’s former president Geraldine Stutz declared in an archival WWD interview.
In matters of legacy, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis another former First Lady, it’d be dismissive to not include her. Pillbox hats, sleek pastel suits, and Americana inclinations are the layman terms ideal to describe Onassis’ style. Her style inclinations while a bit conservative created a blueprint that is still pivotal.
Her looks were an elevated capsule wardrobe. Nothing ever felt off-kilter regarding Jacqueline’s fashion moments. She’d often be photographed wearing gowns including one that was breathtaking, a black square-neck top paired with a bright yellow satin ball skirt. This look also consisted of white opera gloves, which added perfect detail.
Boxy cropped jackets and pencil skirts were another go-to for Kennedy Onassis–these pairings were effortless and sometimes just downright chic. Tailored separates, statement coats, and belts that brought in her waist are long-standing elements that are true to American style to this day, especially if you are leaning heavily into preppy Americana. Each of these details and her dedication to them led to frequent photographs and the crowning of Kennedy Onassis as one of the most fashionable First Ladies the nation has ever seen.
Former First Lady Michelle Obama may have worn floral dresses, J. Crew garbs and pieces by Jason Wu–but she also taught us the lack of limitations one can have when it comes to fashion. Global designers were given a chance to showcase their talent with Obama during the presidency of her husband, former President Barack Obama. “Michelle Obama got to do a little fashionista, but it [was] a modern fashionista,” Agins details. She also shares that she felt what she did with fashion was “almost revolutionary.”
“You can flash back to Jackie Kennedy [and] when she was in the White House, Jackie was a Francophile and she loved French designers. And they told her, you can’t wear French. So Oleg Cassini interpreted a lot of that French look so she could wear it,” Agins adds. She noted that Cassini was an American designer. Cassini reportedly designed 300 looks for Onassis Kennedy.
The names of the designers worn by Mrs. Obama are extensive. But to name a few, it ranges from Tracy Reese, Narciso Rodriguez, Vera Wang, Christian Siriano, Cushnie et Ochs which is now defunct, Diane von Furstenberg, Alexander Wang, Gucci, Moschino, Derek Lam, and many others. Why so many? This was what it took for Mrs. Obama to become associated with the American fashion industry–it was successful. Upon reflection, she stunned with each outing, global meeting, and visit.
In 2013 during former President Obama’s inauguration weekend, Mrs. Obama wore a Thom Browne tailored coat and dress. The hue wasn’t ostentatious–instead, it was a calming grey and was worn with maroon gloves and a metallic detailed belt. In total, this outfit was a foray into the canon that directly correlated to Jacqueline Onassis Kenndey–at least it felt like it as I reflect now. Amid the rise of social media, the former First Lady Obama would step out in brilliant creations such as the floral patterned Gucci gown in Kelly green, pink, and, black. This moment is a standout.
Baring her arms, and having fun with colors and prints is the lasting legacy of Mrs. Obama. But so is her ability to inject her personality and her countless looks made it apparent that she wanted to utilize fashion to present it as an important facet of American culture. This point is driven forward by moments like the Tracy Reese knee-length dress she wore to the 2012 Democratic National Convention. Mrs. Obama wore Reese more than once during her time in the White House.
To this former First Lady, being her truest self meant attending lauded state dinners in memorable gowns by Jason Wu in America to the Neighborhood Inaugural Ball or Tom Ford in London (he was previously based in London) when she dined with the late Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace. The New York Times declared acts like this as “democratic” because it lent significant meaning to the designers she chose to wear.
Agins brought up a point that was notable during our conversation. She shared that at the moment we’re living amid “the globalization” of the fashion industry. “I think we need to get beyond these labels that it has to be American-made because you’ll have designers from different countries who are the head designers of that particular brand.” Agins believes Michelle Obama broke this mold.
Interestingly, this point lands us firmly in the present since the Vice President wore two Chloe suits to the DNC. These choices define winning political style as sticking true to one’s ethos while stepping out confidently. So where does that leave us?
To Kimberly Jenkins, a fashion scholar, educator, and founder of the Fashion & Race Database, it leaves us in an exciting time. She was thrilled and affirmed after seeing the DNC where figures such as television titan and host Oprah Winfrey donned a purple well-cut Christian Siriano suit. Mrs. Obama donned a navy Monse Resort 2025 sleeveless jacket and capri-length trousers. Both of these looks were superb on these women–and they were perfectly tailored. “Sartorially, it [was] just pure splendor seeing all of this.”
“[Vice President] Kamala Harris understands this moment. She likes what she likes. I honestly wouldn’t be surprised if she’s not committed or dedicated to a certain designer. I see her just wanting to give as many opportunities as possible for creative collaboration,” Jenkins noted.
This ideal rings loudly and leaves room for Vice President Harris to continue her track record of elegant and classic suiting. Notably, it also allows her to reimagine what style in the White House can be for a woman leading the United States.