Agbobly’s “Bienvenue Aboard” invites us to embrace every aspect of life’s journey with a renewed sense of hope. Jacques Agbobly, founder, designer, and creative director of the eponymous brand unveils their first New York Fashion Week presentation in what can only be described as an unequivocal success. Attendees lined the entire block in anticipation—so much so that check-in staff regrettably informed latecomers that they would no longer be adding to the queue due to capacity.
15 models stood about the bustling room as attendees wove their way through cracks of open space to catch an up-close glimpse of the pieces. Stacks of luggage brimming with sunflowers served as decoration, setting the stage for the themes of a voyage, unchartered territory, and optimistic beginnings that colored Agbobly’s latest collection.
The designer, who on Friday was named a semi-finalist for this year’s LVMH Prize, continues to evolve their brand by bringing all of their worlds to the forefront. From renaming their brand in 2023 to centering their Togolese heritage to embracing the broad influences of their immigrant identity through design, they challenge the industry to view African designers with reverence and intrigue. The collection is inspired by the merged cultures of their upbringing spanning from Lomé, Togo to Chicago, Illinois. They infuse West African artistry into Western style to tell a story reflective of their and their siblings’ collective childhoods, mournful of their late brother, and open to the voyage life has in store.
The designer described the collection as a “vibrant kaleidoscope of hues” and that it was. An assemblage of both radiant and earth-toned menswear and womenswear displayed Agbobly’s craftsmanship and incredible tailoring. Standouts include a bright yellow two-piece ensemble trimmed with red, green, and blue blocked stripes with a drawstring-cinched back that hugged the model’s silhouette. An electric yellow dress with a ruched midsection, expansive ruffle train, and blooming sleeves was positioned next to a shorter, cream-colored version of the same design.
Whether it be pleating, ruffles, dramatized waists, or intricate embroidery, the designer did not miss any detail. Agbobly weaved multiple creative elements and told a cohesive story. Their ability to take a detailed orange and blue floral print and elevate it through texture, shape, and pleating received delighted gasps from several spectators in the room. A careful eye would appreciate the intricacies, such as the side panel slits, thick knit fringe, zippers that brought together the bottoms of the two yellow numbers, triangular breast pockets, and a layered knit collar, to name a few.
Agbobly’s inspiration, which they spoke to in conversation with ESSENCE.com earlier this week, can be seen throughout the pieces: the print on the multicolored plaid trench coat with double waist straps was finished with the faintest hint of crackling paint detail. The sturdy cargos complete with deep pockets and straps looked fit for the fashionable, albeit long subway commutes.
Some familiar elements of the label’s design style were present as well, such as a colorfully striped knit pattern in dress form, styled over cream-colored cargos. There was also the brown denim two-piece set adorned with beaded and jeweled details, with Togolese-colored stitching traversing the garment, likening the design to coordinates on a map. Matching pantsuits proudly boasted the Togolese colors. Even the hair aided in telling the story as many models donned styles constructed in circular patterns. Whether they were braids fashioned into pinwheels trimming the face and constructing a crown along the hairline, or sections pinned in sweeping circular buns, the styles all pointed to the cyclical nature of life’s journey—the journey that Agbobly brings into conversation through this collection. Agbobly’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection depicts the brand’s limitless expansion, foreshadowing what’s sure to come.
