An abundantly playful energy was the most compelling part of Coach’s Fall/Winter 2024 presentation. This energy was seen in the use of kitschy, colorful hair clips and the use of hits of color such as light yellow, cherry red, and salmon pink. Showcased at a stunning Central Park townhouse, the collection felt like a commentary on New York City style. Laid-back silk camisoles styled with denim pants and blazers worn with hoodies speak to the variety of choices and the spontaneous yet intrinsically stylish spirit New Yorkers embrace every day as they get dressed. For decades, Coach has been known for its sturdy and classic leather handbags, but Vevers who has been at the helm for the past ten years has been reaching for more than this notion. With his latest line of clothing, he is ushering in yet another perspective on what accessibility can look like in the luxury fashion industry. From his vantage point this looks like denim that has been worn countless times, upcycled taffeta dresses as well as upcycled leather separates that feel lived-in. This begs the question of whether or not Vevers sees sustainability as a guiding light worth leaning into?
The show notes mentioned that “found materials” and “clothing typologies” were recognized at their face value and utilized for this collection. Nearly every outfit that went down the runway had elements that felt like they were seeking to subvert notions embedded into traditional codes of luxury. “Classical garments and sartorial details like cardigan jackets, trench coats, tuxedos, and oversize bows are celebrated for their function and form rather than as signifiers of status or social distinctions,” the show notes continued.
Instead of a silken top embellished with oversized bows being worn with a matching skirt, it was paired with damaged denim jeans and bruised leather boots. A deep green taffeta skirt was a highlight of the presentation; it was styled with a matching overcoat and worn leather boots. Hoodies were styled countless times with succinct and extra-large trench coats speaking to how one can spruce up a tailored look by adding a hooded piece to their look. But the inclusion of hoodies felt fluid and appeared to be a nod to how much athleisure has become enmeshed into workwear wardrobes, especially in New York City.
Playful hair clips in assorted hues like light purple, chartreuse, and pink were clipped into a few model’s swept back hairstyles. Additional moments that evoked lively energy were seen by way of knit sweaters that went down the runway. One appeared in light yellow and was emblazoned with a rubber duck, another was light pink and was designed with an enlarged bow in salmon. The previously mentioned look was worn with a pair of cherry red flats which was spot-on, especially since the color is being embraced by fashion lovers.
Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy was a muse of Vevers as he worked on this collection. The two worked at Calvin Klein in the ‘90s. Her ability to evoke Americana style was infused into the clothing. The creative director describes this era as “a time that felt like a real-life mirror to the films of Nora Ephron I find so emblematically New York.” The reclamation of this era was spotted in the effortless appeal of the well-cut leather trench coats that stood out.
Following the presentation Vevers shared that the purpose of the range was to dig into and disrupt the codes and archetypes of luxury. The way he hoped to accomplish this feat was by looking at these signifiers through the lens of the current generation. In total, his attempt felt like a part of the progressive evolution of Coach.
