Diotima’s exquisite Fall/Winter 2024 collection was showcased inside a jam-packed studio at the High Line Nine in New York City. Within the space, models donned luxe pieces in rich hues spanning from a gingery pink lengthy dress with circle cut-outs and a cashew yellow long-sleeved number. These tones are new for the designer, Rachel Scott, who since founding her brand in 2021 never embraced bold colors. Instead, she built her brand on the crux of offering eclectic knit pieces in cream, black and red. She says she previously was careful about which colors she chose because she feels Jamaica is often associated with bold, vibrant tones like greens and yellows. Scott explains that there is so much more complexity and nuance that should be attached to her home country. “I felt like for a long time, I was very reserved,” she adds. “I was very careful not to use a lot of color in a very expected way.” Recently she expressed that she was finally comfortable embracing color. So she decided to chase that feeling and expand the color palette a bit.
Scott expresses that the core of this collection is expanding the understanding of what the brand’s language is. This expansion is seeing Diotima as something larger than a company that focuses on knitwear. The designer says a part of their language is also tailoring. “It’s also who is this woman [when she] is somewhere cold in the winter. What is her coat?” She notes that she wanted to thread these questions through different design elements.
Where did that leave the clothes? Scott put forth an assortment of clothing that felt wide-ranging. There was an off white and brown one-shoulder knit dress that fell just beneath a model’s knees, perfect for wearing with a heavy winter coat and tights. An elegant and well-cut black suit was also paired with a see-through knitted top. A short-sleeved salmon pink knit dress was a standout too. It was designed with a hint of red in the middle of the garment. Each of these pieces was rich in detail and aesthetically pleasing.
On the topic of what type of clothing she is making, Scott explains: “I’m making luxury because for me luxury is really handmade.” Her collaborations with artisans in Jamaica is still ongoing and their work has led to the success of Diotima stateside. She tells ESSENCE that she also worked with artisans in India on the crochet pieces throughout this collection. “I think we need to realign our understanding of luxury. It’s not necessarily made in Italy, it’s someone making something to the highest level of [their] craft and that’s what’s really important to me,” adds Scott.
