Whensmokeclears, a brand born out of a fire has now pivoted to a retrospective look at its origins. Founders Thermal Taveras and K$ace, designers hailing from Harlem and the Bronx, dedicated their Spring/Summer 2024 show to the visual themes of the boroughs they know. The duo presented sixteen looks inspired by uptown streetwear influences, donning deconstructed denim, durags, and Timberland boots. The brand’s pride in the city’s culture has inspired its works since its origins in jewelry design years ago, and this latest presentation indicates a referential focus.
After Whensmokeclears lost its first pieces in a devastating fire in 2016, the designers took it as a sign for conceptual redirection. They turned their hardships into their most recognizable staple to date; a radiant heart and fire torch necklace with Swarovski crystals. The popularity of this foundational piece allowed them to expand into elevated streetwear increasingly visible in the celebrity styling space. This was visible at the SS24 show which attracted recognizable brand patrons: comedian Sam Jay and rapper Jim Jones.
In the founders’ words, the brand is an ode to Black heroes and made in celebration of their culture. These heroes include cultural mavens of the uptown tradition, as well as the streetwear ateliers who came before the brand. Patch-pocket denim pants and sweatshorts anchored an array of leather and vinyl matching sets that deepened in hue as the show progressed. Standouts from the show included a yellow oversized denim set styled in a vein similar to streetwear heritage brand Fubu’s early work. Following this look were six maroon co-ord sets rotating between a vinyl suit, two-tone denim trousers, and a deconstructed football jersey styled over bootcut leather pants.
The show concluded with a coordinating dress and pants look with exposed seams, modeled by Taveras’ wife, Jada-Renee. The moment doubled as a pregnancy announcement, as the dress unbuttoned just below the collar to show her protruding baby bump. This moment surmised the unexpected intimacy of the show, which welcomed a large crowd juxtaposed with the people most familiar with the brand and founders. As Whensmokeclears continues to explore the ranges of its visual profile, it stands out as a strong brand for those who love New York and the fashion the city births.
