Walking into the Hall des Lumières for the Spring/Summer 2025 runway presentation from Who Decides War ignited a haunting recollection of the Victorian era. The large columns, marble floors, and high ceilings were the perfect vessels for this new collection to be unveiled. The designer duo Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore made their fantasy into a reality with pieces that reference the 19th century. Setting the scene of the time warp, rising rapper Cash Cobain and his string section knights from Frank Sinatra School of the Arts performed classical beats mixing songs by Alicia Keys, Jamiroquai, and Stephanie Mills.
Textiles born in that time frame such as cotton, linen, terry, denim, leather, and lace, made an appearance on the runway worn by the likes of supermodel Alton Mason, DJ Anaa Saber, Anyelina Rosa, and Anna Lira. Blending luxury and streetwear, the duo added sleek pieces such as textured cream sweaters, pleated pants, and oversized leather bags onto the runway. Other textured garments, such as a satin ruched slip dress, a sheer striped one-shoulder gown, and a matching jacquard set, made their way through the venue.
Puff-sleeve silhouettes were the star of the show, and they were a direct reference from the Victorian era, done in a modern avant-garde method on a jacket. It was lapelless with exposed boning and a dyed and hooped hemline. Green hues materialized on deconstructed utility tunics with exposed ties and two-piece sets, both adorned in unforgettable sheen finishes.
More feminine gowns hit the runway as the brand introduced womenswear in their Rolodex of offerings. A red strapless, ruched, floor-length dress paired with a matching red leather handbag channeled the 19th century contemporarily, while a leather coat covered in belt buckles called to the Victorian era over a collared white shirt and printed cream pants.
Streetwear elements like an attached hood were seen even in the most glamorous of looks, such as a corset top with exaggerated deconstructed sleeves and a form-fitting mermaid cut skirt with a tiered hemline and layered tulle underneath. A quilted dress caught our attention as it was paired with leather gloves coming up to the model’s arm, directly opposite to the sheer layered slip dress in a dream-like with matching sheet gloves. In collaboration with the runway show, Jordan Brand and Pelle Pelle ensured the looks were given that modern twist with crisp sneakers and leather goods.
All these looks explored Bravado and Amore’s minds as they continued to hone their voices as designers. Within this collection, they journeyed through time to show their audience a story-telling tactic through not only the venue but details such as music, intricate design details, and execution overall. Even the intentional way of introducing womenswear is a continuation from their Spring/Summer 2024 show as they introduced femininity onto their runway.
