Braids are one of the most in-demand protective hairstyles. Whether you’re rocking a cute, box-braided bob or a long and wavy boho style, the feeling of leaving the chair with fresh braids and knowing you will have an extended break from styling your own hair is unmatched. Years of getting braids have taught many of us to be patient with the tenderness that often follows an appointment. But when the discomfort becomes more severe, a bigger issue, such as an allergic reaction, might be at hand. Recently, TikTok has exploded with videos showing firsthand what that looks like.
All over the country, people have been sharing clips of their experiences with allergic reactions after having their hair braided. Swelling, hives, and unbearable itching are some of the most common symptoms people find themselves dealing with. While these issues may not be new, they have sparked an important conversation about the contents of the products used to braid hair and the importance of scalp health when donning protective hairstyles.
On TikTok, several videos have gone viral, stating that the cleanliness of synthetic braiding hair is the main cause of allergic reactions. But what exactly does that mean in terms of pre-packaged hair, and how do the symptoms manifest? As cold weather months are a popular time for protective styling, we’re getting to the root of this issue to better understand how to deal with and prevent it moving forward.
What does an allergic reaction to braids look like?
We all know the aches and pains that come with new braids. Even for a brief period of time, it can be a hassle to deal with. Having an allergic reaction takes the discomfort to another level. “Itching, redness, or an eczema-like rash on the scalp are all common symptoms of an allergic reaction to braids,” says Naana Boakye, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Bergen Dermatology and eponymous skincare brand, Dr. Naana Beauty. But that can just be the beginning. She explains that in more severe cases, inflammation of the hair follicles, a condition known as folliculitis, can develop, leading to tender bumps or pimples along the scalp.
Experiencing these symptoms for the first time can be confusing for most people. In many of the videos shared on TikTok, women expressed having experienced similar issues in the past, not realizing they were developing an allergy. For Kadidja Dosso, founder of Dosso Beauty, a leader in hypoallergenic braiding hair and extensions, the experience was eye-opening. “After getting my hair braided, I noticed I had tiny bumps all over my forehead, and my scalp felt inflamed and on fire, unlike anything I’d felt before,” she says. “I knew it had to be an allergic reaction.”
What causes an allergic reaction to braids?
According to Boakye, allergic reactions can be triggered by several different things, including the products used and the extensions themselves. Gel and mousse are often utilized during the braiding process, and while they can contribute to a reaction, braiding hair is often the problem. “There wasn’t a doubt in my mind, and I knew right away it had to be the hair because of where the reactions were occurring. It wasn’t just my scalp and the roots of my hair, but also my neck and shoulders,” Dosso says. On TikTok, many women have a similar story, displaying hives, rashes, and inflammation on their foreheads, cheeks, and ears where the hair falls.
Braids of any style often require hair extensions to add length and volume to the style, and more often than not, the extensions are synthetic. Jodi Logerfo, DNP, APRN, FNP-BC, certified in family medicine and dermatology, explains that synthetic hair extensions are commonly made from fibers such as kanekalon or toyokalon and can contain chemical additives or dyes. “Kanekalon is a repeated culprit of allergic reactions, and some people may find that their skin can react negatively to it, causing inflammation, irritation, and other allergic symptoms,” she says.
Boakye echoes this, noting that “synthetic hair is often made from materials like acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride, which emit volatile organic compounds (VOCs). These chemicals are known irritants and are even classified as carcinogens, making them potential culprits for allergic reactions.”
How to avoid an allergic reaction?
Side-stepping an allergy to braiding hair is easier than you may think. The first step is to use clean hair—and no, that doesn’t mean freshly shampooed. Kanekalon is affordable and versatile for creating braids, and ridding it of toxins lessens the chance of adverse reactions. “Pre-washing synthetic hair with a clarifying cleanser or soaking it in apple cider vinegar (ACV) can help remove some of the chemical irritants,” Boakye says.
An ACV wash is also one of the top tips on TikTok for those experiencing a reaction. In one video, with over 9 million views, a TikToker who cut her braids off after just five days demonstrates how to give braid hair an apple cider vinegar bath. Other videos boast the benefits of rinsing the scalp with ACV to relieve symptoms when the braids are still in.
Buying pre-cleansed extensions, like Dosso Beauty’s hypoallergenic braiding hair, is another route people are taking to avoid the possibility of an allergic reaction. As a dermatologist-tested product, the extensions are suitable for temperamental and sensitive skin types.
Outside of hypoallergenic products, Logerfo notes that human hair extensions are less likely to contain irritating chemicals and can decrease the risk of an allergic response as well.
Soothing the symptoms
Scalp care is essential while wearing braids. However, it’s even more crucial when allergic reactions come into play. To protect your scalp, Boakye recommends applying soothing creams before installation and ensuring the braids are not too tightly set, as excessive tension can worsen irritation and lead to further damage. It’s also urged not to wear the style for an extended period. If you’ve experienced an allergic reaction in the past, keeping braids in for a maximum of four weeks is advised to minimize prolonged contact with potential irritants — and to keep the scalp healthy.