When I fell in love with From Scratch, Netflix’s 2022 adaptation of Tembi Locke’s memoir starring Zoe Saldana, Italy became a top country on my must-visit list. The food, the culture, the community—I wanted to experience it all. And this July, I got a chance to do just that on a press trip with Spanish hotel chain Meliá. Over nine days, I flew from Los Angeles to Barcelona, hopped on a flight from there to Milan, took a quick train ride to Florence, and then drove to Tuscany. And even after all of that moving and city shaking, I was this close to extending my trip to visit the Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá in Rome (impressive for a cocktail-by-the-pool kind of vacation girl), which tells you just how much I enjoyed my European getaway. Scroll below to find out why and how to plan your own Spanish-Italian summer escape.
Where to Stay in Milan: The Palazzo Cordusio
If you’re a city girl (when it comes to travel, not the Yung Miami type), you won’t find a better hotel location in Milan than Palazzo Cordusio. Situated in Piazza Cordusio, a bustling square with 19th-century neoclassical and art nouveau architecture, the property is just steps away from the metro, high- and low-end shopping, and the Duomo di Milano, one of the largest gothic cathedrals in the world, which you can see from some guest rooms and one of the restaurants on site.
Formerly the Assicurazioni Generali headquarters, the hotel underwent a massive reconstruction before opening its doors—and its 84 luxury rooms and suites—to guests in December 2023.
As a lover of modern design, the accommodations at this property literally spoke to my soul, from the glass open shower with a standalone soaking tub inside to the high ceilings and the neutral wood and beige color palate complemented by pops of red or turquoise depending on the room. Rubelli fabrics are used throughout the property to pay homage to its Venetian roots.
The spa is one of my favorite amenities on site because of its naturally inviting pool and lounge area, complete with a sauna, steam room, shower, and ice station for cold plunging. Oversized seating makes it easy to drift to sleep after a relaxing swim but be warned: taking in the beautiful combination of gold, glass, and mirrors in the space may indeed keep you wide awake.
Where to Eat
Isola: I don’t have the language in English or Italian to convey just how exceptionally delicious the food is at Isola. Quite frankly, I’m still trying to comprehend how a plate of mozzarella cheese could have that much flavor. And it only gets better from there with an assortment of pasta – linguine, spaghetti, gnocchi, you can’t go wrong, and I promise it’s nothing like anything you’ve ever tasted in the States, not even your mom’s home cooking.
It’ll be hard, but save some room for dessert in the form of sorbet. The lemon and mandarin flavors are refreshing, and the presentation is too cute to pass up. It’s all but a guarantee that if you stare off into the rooftop views for too long while dining, you’ll be asking yourself how soon you can relocate.
Sachi: Japanese cuisine on a rooftop while looking at the Duomo in the distance as the sun sets makes for a very sexy experience at Sachi. An assortment of raw, grilled, and fried (tempura) dishes await in addition to maki rolls, sushi, and sashimi.
The drink menu is lined with sake, wine, and Japanese takes on classic cocktails. And a picture of the historic cityscape behind you is a must.
Giardino Cordusio: The beautiful green interior of Giardino Cordusio will catch your eye immediately upon entering the hotel Palazzo Cordusio, so you might as well step inside and have a cocktail and a (fancy) light bite—the restaurant’s specialties.
The Negroni is a signature drink here, and you’ll have six different types to choose from. Add a Cordusio salad—essentially a Caesar but with parmesan that’s been aged 24 months.
What to Do
Book a walking day tour: Booking a day tour if you’re short on travel time may not seem ideal, but with so much to see in Milan, the right guide will make sure you hit all the highlights and discover a few hidden gems. In one day, we strolled through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the oldest shopping center in the world; toured the famous Teatro alla scala and Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, where we saw the Davinci Code (the hotel can hook you up with an exclusive tour here as well); took pictures in front of the Duomo; and stumbled upon incredibly unassuming courtyards filled with statues and other ornate design elements.
Get gelato at Ciacco: Rather than let the line detour you, allow it to reassure you that the Italian ice cream inside is worth the wait—plus, it moves fast. Here you’ll find a variety of gelato flavors made from only natural ingredients. I’m a fan of the stracciatella, which is a vanilla-like base with chocolate flakes.
Where to Stay in Tuscany: Tenuta di Artimino
Tenuta di Artimino is what one envisions when one daydreams about a trip to the Italian countryside. There’s lush green hills of land—more than 1,800 acres to be exact—growing grapes for wine, olives for fresh oil, and produce for fine dining. There are centuries-old buildings with classic terracotta rooftops and cobblestone walkways upon which memories are meant to be made.
The history at this wine estate, formerly a hunting lodge for the famed 15th-century Italian Medici family, among other things, runs deep. One area that’s best seen is in the 59 Tuscan-style Borgo apartments on the property, which have been turned into guest accommodations. As such, no two rooms are quite the same.
For example, apartment 92 used to be the village church—which makes for unique discoveries upon arrival and the exploration of distinct decor. I had the pleasure of a room in a small enclave just a few feet from the wellness center where I could’ve stayed in the hydro massage pool for the rest of my stay.
The spa features a Finnish sauna, Turkish bath with self-scrub, sensory shower, ice fountain, and a Scottish shower, in addition to an extensive treatment menu. It’d be a shame to leave without experiencing the Gold Wine Therapy, which includes a wine bath with mineral salts and grape polyphenols inside a wooden tub with, of course, a glass of wine. For more traditional guests, an additional 36 traditional-style hotel rooms can be found on the other side of the property, along with a park, swimming pool, and tennis court.
Where to Eat
Biagio Pignatta: Choose your courses wisely at this restaurant, which serves the traditional Italian beef steak dish bistecca fiorentina in portions where sharing is necessary. The same goes for the wine in Chianti country, though the rosé certainly gives the treasured red a run for its money. You can see the sunset at every restaurant at Tenuta di Artimino, and I can attest to the splendor of the view from this one.
Da Delfina: Charm abounds at this restaurant, owned and very much still operated by 80-something-year-old chef Carlo Cioni, who was born and raised in Artimino. When he talks to you in Italian, consider his passion for food and cooking context clues, not that you’ll be able to focus on much else besides the delicious meal in front of you and the acres of land around you.
What to Do
Tour the Medici Villa La Ferdinanda: Situated inside the village of Artimino is the hunting lodge built by the Medici family in 1596. Inside, you’ll find an early invention of Leonardo da Vinci and fresco paintings by Domenico Cresti and Bernardino Poccetti as you tour the former quarters of Ferdinando I De Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, and his wife. Fun history fact: In 1532, relative Alessandro de’ Medici, called “Il Moro” (“The Moor”), was named Duke of Florence and became the first Black head of state in the modern Western world. While exploring the property, take advantage of the other guest offerings at Artimino, such as an off-road wine tour, horseback riding, or a cooking class.
Take a day trip to Florence: Roughly 30-45 minutes away, depending on traffic, Florence is the metropolitan capital of the Tuscan region. As such, you’ll find a variety of things to do, from shopping at leather markets and designer houses to touring the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and La Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze, where Michelangelo’s “David” is on display. Grab some pizza at Osteria San Fiorenzo, and don’t miss the slightly hidden wine window around the corner where you can knock and order your vino of choice. If you stay long enough for dinner, Trattoria Antico Fattore makes for a wise choice. The locale, which first opened in 1865, has been a meeting place for artists and intellectuals for more than a century. (See if you can spot the copy of Toni Morrison’s Beloved hanging on the wall.)
Where to Stay in Barcelona: Torre Melina Gran Meliá
Interested in flying from an Italian hot spot to the always buzzing Barcelona? Do it! Flights are relatively affordable and depending where you’re traveling from, not long either. Once in town, I recommend Torre Melina Gran Meliá as a resort-like respite. Located away from the city center, decompressing is easy here, as simple sophistication reigns throughout the property, from the guest rooms to the outdoor lounging areas.
Once again, a modern design and a neutral color palate add to the tranquility of Torre Melina. The guest rooms are naturally sunlit, with a glass walk-in shower in the open-concept bathroom, which features gold hardware—a favorite detail of mine. RedLevel luxury service entitles you to even higher quality accommodations along with exclusive lounge access and other bonuses.
With Labor Day just around the corner, I recommend you book your stay after September 5, which is when the property’s new 25,000 sq ft rooftop garden, affording spectacular views of the city below, will be open. The Thai Room Spa just welcomed its first guests at the end of July, so you’ll still be among the early crew who get to take relaxation to the next level at this urban resort.
Where to Eat
L’amaranta: I was at Torre Melina for two and a half days, and I ate the salmon with edamame at L’amaranta three times, so that should tell you something.
Whether dining by candlelight on the outdoor patio for dinner or by daylight indoors, the service is superb. The only issue you’ll have is resisting the fresh breadbasket and olive oil they bring you to start. Don’t fight it.
Erre Urrechu: Fine dining in the Bosque tradition of Spanish cuisine is what you’ll find at Erre Urrechu, where meat, seafood, and vegetables are grilled on three distinct types of wood—which you can watch in the open kitchen—to bring out the best flavor.
The waiters talking me through the history of each dish only elevated the exceptional dining experience.
Beso Pedralbes: One word: paella. I don’t care how many people you’re traveling with, you must order the paella, and, yes, you will need a small army to eat it all.
Presented in the largest cast-iron skillet you’ve likely ever seen, the flavors in this seafood rice dish are exquisite, as was everything I tried on the menu at Beso, where you can sip Cava poolside ‘til you shouldn’t anymore while listening to a live DJ show you how to embrace the Spanish tradition of hours-long lunches.
What to Do
Visit the Basílica de la Sagrada Família: Leaving Barcelona without seeing this visual gem is like going to Paris and not seeing Notre Dame. It stands as the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world, but don’t let a little construction stop you from witnessing the magnificent work of architect Antoni Gaudí. While roaming, you can also stroll along the Paseo de Gracia and Rambla Cataluña for shopping.
Tour the Casa Batlló by Gaudí: Speaking of Gaudí, to fully appreciate the work of the Catalan architect and designer, purchase tickets to Casa Batlló, also known as “the house of magic,” for a visual experience unlike any other.
Have a drink at Dry Martini: We lucked up on this find on a whim, not knowing it’s dubbed “an icon of the world of mixology.” Thinking the night couldn’t get any better than the specialty cocktails this bar serves, I had a wasabi mule that was incredible. We found out they have a secret speakeasy restaurant in the back where the food is equally delectable. Cross your fingers that you get the password right for entry.