In the evolving world of fashion, Black designers are having a moment.
When Issa Rae hosted the CFDA Fashion Awards—the first Black woman ever to do so—she stunned on the red carpet in a custom Pyer Moss jumpsuit designed by Haitian American fashion designer Kerby Jean-Raymond. In Zendaya’s evolution from Disney starlet to leading lady, Law Roach selected several ensembles from Brooklyn-bred designer Romeo Hunte’s debut collection for a week-long press tour.
When Beyoncé was spotted carrying a white Telfar shopping bag while out to lunch in Brooklyn, Twitter blew up—as did the global appeal of the Liberian-American designer’s popular “Bushwick Birkin” bag. Beyoncé further endorsed the bag on her Renaissance album, declaring, “This Telfar bag imported. Birkins? Them s**t’s in storage,” in an iconography-sealing pop culture moment à la Sex and the City era Sarah Jessica Parker and Manolo Blahnik. Fashion brands such as Hanifa, Lemlem, and LaQuan Smith, among others, are making noise while bridging the gap between aspirational and accessible.
While the right A-list placements can turn designers into global sensations overnight, reaching the level of visibility necessary to get on the rack and in the rooms of top celebrities has long been elusive. It has taken decades of advocacy and perseverance behind the scenes to pave the way for today’s Black designers to shine. Pioneers like model and activist Bethann Hardison have fought tirelessly to break barriers and advocate for systemic reform in an industry historically resistant to “outsiders.”
Despite advancements, substantial barriers to entry and advancement remain.According to a Drapers survey, 50.8% of fashion professionals believe the industry is not addressing diversity, equity, and inclusion quickly enough. Additionally, 41.3% of respondents think minorities face greater difficulties breaking into the fashion industry, while 38.1% report minorities encounter more challenges advancing within the sector. These findings highlight the structural barriers that professionals of color continue to face in fashion.
Effectively tackling these systemic issues requires a multi-pronged approach. In this ongoing effort, Aurora James, founder of upscale lifestyle and accessories brand Brother Vellies, and trailblazing journalist Lindsay Peoples Wagner, editor-in-chief at The Cut, have emerged as key players. They are driving meaningful change and setting new standards for increased representation in the fashion industry.
Aurora James and the Fifteen Percent Pledge: From Awareness to Accountability
With her Fifteen Percent Pledge, James has made significant strides toward diversity and inclusion, securing commitments from major retailers like Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Sephora, and Macy’s to allocate 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned companies.
Launched in 2020, the campaign emerged during a period of heightened awareness of systemic racism and structural inequities. James recalls it as a “lightning in a bottle” moment. “Everyone was feeling feelings at that time, but we didn’t really know what to do with them,” she said. Rage, when strategically directed, can be a powerful impetus for change, but intense emotions often overshadow reason and logic.
As conversations about the impact of systemic racism and corporate social responsibility developed around the murder of George Floyd, James put a plan into motion. “When it comes to major corporations, if they can’t track it, they won’t do it. We needed to attach a set of real KPIs around what otherwise largely existed as a feeling,” she said. “For me, the pledge was a really great place to start.”
With 29 companies pledged and over 600 Black-owned brands on shelves, the Fifteen Percent Pledge has redirected $14 billion in revenue to Black-owned businesses.
The Black In Fashion Council: Lindsay Peoples Wagner’s Blueprint for Equity
In groundbreaking roles as editor-in-chief at Teen Vogue—notably the youngest-ever for a Condé Nast publication and currently at The Cut, Peoples Wagner utilizes her journalistic platforms to shed light on diverse experiences. Her viral and widely acclaimed piece, “Everywhere and Nowhere: What It’s Really Like to Be Black and Work in Fashion,” exemplifies this commitment.
Despite, or perhaps because of, her influence and earned credibility, she confronted a challenge common among activists. “There is often a tendency to pass off responsibility, especially in our industry,” she shared. “I always felt like I was too young, didn’t have the same resources, or lacked the access that others had.” If tempted to defer responsibility, she resisted and began with small, impactful actions: “I started just by hosting events for Black women in my apartment, trying to effect change and be of service in my own way.”
What began as living room meetings became a movement as she resolved to take greater action: “When you have a platform and resources, you have to use them to actually help people.” With public relations professional Sandrine Charles, Peoples Wagner founded the Black in Fashion Council (BIFC) to tackle the systemic disparities she’d encountered in the fashion industry. Since its 2020 inception, the council has developed crucial frameworks, produced an annual report card on Black representation in the industry, and boosted support and visibility for emerging Black designers.
In partnership with the Human Rights Campaign, BIFC’s inaugural report reveals that 22% of companies with boards of directors are committed to including Black representation. Nearly 100 companies have pledged to increase the percentage of Black employees in both executive and junior-level positions. Additionally, about 20% of these companies are implementing formal professional development programs specifically for underrepresented minorities.
The DEI Pendulum
As DEI initiatives face nationwide backlash with setbacks across higher education and various sectors of corporate America—both James and Peoples Wagner remain committed to their vision of advancing equity in the fashion industry.
On the shifting tolerance for such investments, James offers a balanced perspective. “Some of our pledge takers remain hyper-engaged, exploring how they can do more. In a time when a lot of people are focusing on rollbacks, and we’re all seeing the press on the decline of DEI—we’ve given out almost half a million dollars in grants over the past few years, which is pretty extraordinary. But separately, a lot of corporations are just deciding not to do anything, and I believe consumer interest is also waning,” she shared.
Peoples Wagner has also felt the shift: “There are these pendulum swings where it feels like—why do we have to constantly remind people that diversity should be important? It’s tiresome and disappointing that we still have to fight to have these conversations, but I also believe we are somewhat set up for this moment,” she shared. “We’re equipped and uniquely positioned to address these issues to improve the industry. Finding that middle ground, I think, is just part of the journey.”
Aurora James and Lindsay Peoples Wagner are the cultural change agents the fashion industry needs. Through the Fifteen Percent Pledge and the Black in Fashion Council, respectively, their unwavering commitment underscores the vital importance of continuing the fight for diversity and inclusion.